Citron Meringuee Deconstructed

Don't think for one second since I'm showing you a list of ingredients I'm about to start baking citron tartes meringuees EVER.

Beaten eggwhites/meringue and I have parted company permanently...

Even so I tried to taste, shoot or eat a citron tarte meringuee almost daily last trip in Paris.

My expertise has risen quite a few notches. This version from Monop is one you can pass up without remorse. Lackluster and not lemony enough. Plus the meringue lacked structure (it was mushy) and panache (whatever that is..). Still the high crust is an interesting innovation and merits 1*.

Tres chic MIYOU's version at La Bon Marche was much more lemony but the meringue again was too mushy.

In the end, after two weeks of intensive research, I must sadly conclude that we're dealing with a tarte au citron i.e. a lemon curd pie plus a dollop of meringue of varying sizes. In some cases this is can be a mere smidge of meringue.

No doubt the citron meringuee is 'in' right now in Paris. I saw it everywhere.

But how different is this from ordering a plain bagel?

Or a bagel with a 'schmear'?

Sorry that's how I see it PBers.

I suggest you pick up this tarte-shaped cookbook at BHV(9.90 euros) and get cracking on the lemon tarte and call it a day. Making a good meringue can be hellish.

Now this tarte can be called meringuee in my opinion.

Le Loir dan la Theiere is another true source and I missed it.

I must go back!

Le Loir dans la Theiere, watercolor, 9" x 11"

Here's another miss at CDG airport by the way.

Perhaps the best solution of all: a French citron meringuee candle from Comptoir de Famille - no calories.

BONJOUR CITRON MERINGUEE!

Rendez-vous at Cafe Pouchkine

Cafe Pouchkine, watercolor, 9" x 11"
I had a teatime rendez-vous with PastryParis author, Susan Hochbaum near Metro Franklin D. Roosevelt. *NEVER agree to meet anyone near this metro. In fact avoid it at all costs. It's totally confusing + it was pouring cats and dogs out to boot. Where was Leslie Caron to lead me out the right exit? I turned around and went home :(
Thanks to email we re-connected later at Cafe Pouchkine - Printemps..
That's Susan about to take her seat at the counter. Go early before it gets crowded. Word is out. Or else the cafe is being bombarded by PBers :)

I hit it lucky - la vendeuse is completely involved packing up pastries and misses me taking pastry shots. On the left a Russian witty version of the quelle ordinaire French choquette (Chouquette Botchka) - those little sugared puffs you buy a bag of for 1-2 euros.

What is a 'Medovick'? Does it matter?

Everything at Cafe Pouchkine is pretty amazing and worth a try...

I decide on the rosey-raspberry jelled concoction on the left...

Extremement jolie!

Clever Pouchkine lets you eat on top of rows of macarons, chocolate truffles and nougat so you never lose focus on their pastries...

Susan asks if this is a favorite of mine? Not at all. I'm ready to experiment these days after eating at least 20 tarte au citron meringuees...

Third time Susan is indulging in this Pouchkine fantasie...

Susan's description:

'I don't know what it's called but it was a rolled lemon poppy cake with salted butter caramel. The meringues around the side melted like snowflakes in my mouth.'

Is teatime pricy at Cafe Pouchkine?

About 10+ euros each but your surrounded by luxe, calme et volupte.

At least until the crowds (other PBers) arrive.

Go early and enjoy.

Susan is having a book signing at Rizzoli Tuesday night 5:30 - 7:30

There will be pastries (not from Cafe Pouchkine malheueusement...ahem)

Bonjour Paris Rendez-vous

Paris Pumpkin

Le(la) BOO!
I don't know what gender 'Boo' is but certainement you'll see signs of Halloween in many classy joints around town...
La Petite Marquise (3 Pl. Victor Hugo 75016) had several tres chic witches dans le vitrine in full regalia...

Sweet Paris said I must taste her fav, la feuille d'automne so I did...

Trop de creme pour moi malheureusement/way too much cream for me. I discovered the secret of tarte citron meringuee. Often it's just a tarte citron with a dollop of toasted meringue adorning the curd. Who knew?

Do stop by Sweet Paris if you want to see what pricy Halloween shenanigans Patrick Roger is up to.

Is it only the French who can get away with putting a knitted pumpkin plus a knitted aubergine into a window on rue St.-Honore to display fancy watches? Knitting is very in. This ain't happening on Madison Ave., NYC...

Not pumpkin-flavored macarons but pumpkin-colored at Angelina. Pumpkin is the color in my humble opinion in Paris.

Fancy kids store, Bonpoint is showing pumpkin hats and scarves.

Are you missing a pumpkin Eiffel tower in your collection? Dash over to rue Cambon immediatement!

Why not deck yourself out in pumpkin head-to-toe like this French girl...

I was interested to catch this class act dans le Metro - an art student off to class with her supplies in a Hediard bag. Pas mal non?

I'm off to watercolor class today at the National Academy with David Dewey. We're supposed to paint from the nude...ahem. But I'm bringing in my own subject matter - nice, colorful geometric macaron boxes and bags to paint (plus real macarons for contrast).

Bon(ne) Halloween PBers!

Pierre Herme Fetish Azur

Naturalement, first thing off the Metro today, coming from the Eurostar, I went into Lenotre for their tarte citron meringue. The es-ca-la-tor lets you off just in front so does one have a choice?How I wish the filling had been more lemony - Lester don't yell at me or moan at the left crust svp... Am I addicted to Lemon tarts? 'Accros' is French slang for obsession/addiction.
Recently Pierre Herme annouced of his newest macaron box designed by artist, Nicolas Vial.

Vial's exhibit at the Musee de la Poste, was second on my agenda after Lenotre's citron tarte.

Vial is definitely 'accros' of lemon yellow/jaune citron.

Many lashings of lemon in his paintings so what's not to love.

By the way Herme has a new gorgeous baking book out

Reves de Patissiere - it's so golden it glows.

Glowy windows at P.Herme

Showing off his newest 'fetish' of the season.

Et Voila! 'Le Tarte Azur'

I get the mini verison - it's intensely lemony/chocolatey.

There is a bit of citron vert croquante/ preserved lime plus Japanese Yuzu, another lemony fruit. Little squared chunks of sable sit on top a rich ganache - beneath this a thin layer of chocolate cake. Altogether a plethora of textures and flavors that melt in the mouth.

I tasted the crust.

And shared the rest with the Saint-Sulpice pigeons.

Bonjour Fetish Azur!