Daphne Guinness at FIT

Daphne Guinness doodles...
Daphne Guiness' collection is at Fashion Institute of Technology museum till January 7, 2012.
She was there in person last Thursday for the Fashion Icons conference...
Signing her book and sharing fashion tales...
If you missed the McQueen or even if you didn't, do stop in at FIT for more fashion drama and extravaganzas...

Seen sprinting through Leicester Square in his red kimono, McQueen yelled out,

"Och, that's my coat you're wearing"

The rest is fashion history...

The exhibition collection is divided into categories. 'Dandyism' reflects Guinness' 'absolute passion for men's clothes.'

Waistcoats, cumberbands, epaulets...

Military jackets galore..

'Sparkle' evokes Daphne's love for anything shiney

'Evening Chic' equals classic elegance. "I like structure...with a bit of chaos."

Wilde said,"One should either be a work of art or wear a work of art".

A plumed bird...

Valentino says he knows Daphne's been there because of the trails of feathers and beads left in her wake...

BONJOUR DAPHNE!

Balenciaga & Spain

This has been a Balenciaga + Spain week...
I visited the Balenciaga exhibit at the Queen Sophia Spanish Institute at 684 Park Avenue on Tuesday (on through Feb 19 so don't miss it)
Three floors of exquisite examples of the maitre/master of couture..
Plus designer sketches and catwalk videos. Here drawings by Rene Gruau.
Everywhere evidence of Balenciaga's Spanish background, as an altar boy at the Church of San Sabastien...
Plus influence of the great Spanish painters like Zuniga...
Picasso, Goya and of course Velasquez.
*Note the infanta's multi satin bows!
Bows are everywhere on Balenciaga's creations...
Bows both fore and aft...

The bow acts as a feminine touch to soften a simple, austere gown like this one covered in red carnations, the national flower of Spain.

Deep red gypsy roses show up on Balenciaga's amusing hats...

"Wit was on the head, where it should be."

Rose Champagne, original watercolor 9" x 11"

Inspired me to get out my paintbox...

The bullring was a favorite inspiration source, though Balenciaga did not like to attend the slaughter. But 'the suit of lights', the tiny hats, the rituals fascinated him, and French women were delighted to follow where ever he led them.

"A ruffle must be intelligent," he told his protege, Givenchy.

Certainly Audrey benefited from Balenciaga's tuteladge to her chosen designer...

The flavor of Joquin Sorolla's flamenco dancers is evident in richly embroidered mantilla dresses...

Last night at FIT, Vogue European editor, Hamish Bowles gave a lecture on the exhibit he helped curate and his new book on Balenciaga & Spain, coming out March '11

Seen side by side, the Spanish source of inspiration + the unique creations endlessly amazed.

Do go to the exhibit and immerse yourself in an elegant world long gone...

"Working sometimes on the cut of a sleeve, he would neglect all else and go without food or sleep for days and nights." said Gloria Guinness, couture client.

BRAVO BALENCIAGA!

Lolita Tea Party @ FIT

Yesterday I went to the JAPAN FASHION NOW show at the Fashion Institute of Technology(FIT). Comme de Garcons pink gingham skirt
This is one fabulous, huge exhibit of Japanese clothing design from the '70s till now on through January 8, 2011.
I was in Tokyo for 6 weeks in the '80's on a Parsons' graphic design program led by CBS Art Director, John Berg and the memories came flooding back. The dollar was good in those days. Comme De Garcons had navy blue trucks daily delivering new merch to the department stores and I was there (instead of in class) to grab it - I bought a ton of stuff, most I gave away. It was impossible to figure out how to put it on. We got invited to an Issey Myaki sale and given garbage bags! to fill up - I bought a red bus conductor's belt with attached purse - I wonder whose wearing it now..?Current fashion trends called 'Cosplay' include "a kind of role play involving dressing up as characters from popular manga (comic books), anime (animated films), computer/video games" or as The New York Times mentioned,"a bizarre pastiche of Central European folkloric costume pieces." The WSJ has a video on the 'Hime' or princess style. Thanks TamiElegant & Gothic Lolita styles are represented in depth. With lifelike Volk dolls in matching outfits... Later there was a Lolita Tea party. Oh why did I leave my Sonia hairbow at home?
Hints of Alice

And Marie-Antoinette are part of the Lolita look.

Wear your cupcakes.

Or eat them.

Cat cookies for the cat fanciers.

And macarons bien sur!

Please wear pink shoes with your macaron skirt...

Bags with bows=essential

There's a dark side to this sweet Lolita subculture - like the Simpson's 'Itchy and Scratchy' - it's not all sugar and pink marshmallows. Character cats, Hangry & Angry creator, Gashicon, was there for a discussion with the show's fashion historian and curator, Valerie Steele pre-tea party to tell all.

A tea party attendee decked out in all the accoutrements - these outfits are elaborate and expensive...

If you're in New York, do NOT MISS the Japan Fashion Now show and there are lots more related events to attend.

BONJOUR LOLITAS!